The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago – Camino Francés (Part 2)
by WenDAY 9 - Sarria to Portomarin (22KM)
The path is alive with many people. Backpacks of every size and color bob along the dusty trail. It's a constant stream of walkers, some alone, others in small groups. A chorus of "Buen camino!" fills the air, a friendly greeting passed back and forth like a baton. I smile and nod, feeling a sense of camaraderie with these strangers united by a common goal. The energy is infectious, pushing me forward with each step.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/sarria.jpg)
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Westie's Grassy Escape
On our walk from Sarria to Portomarin, we encountered a family accompanied by three dogs. While the owners strolled ahead, their Westie seized the opportunity to indulge in a playful roll around in the dewy grass. So cute~
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/camino-de-santiago-dogs.jpg)
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Camino with Canine Companion
Spotting the dogs ahead, I quickened my pace to match theirs. A pang of longing washed over me as I imagined Bear, my own faithful companion, trotting by my side on this Camino adventure.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/westie-camino.jpg)
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A Camino lunch is always a delightful surprise
The simplest dishes often pack the biggest flavor punch. My sausage omelet today was a case in point - an uncomplicated meal that will linger in my memory long after the trail.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Sarria-to-Portomarin-lunch.jpg)
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Sarria-to-Portomarin-desser.jpg)
Portomarin at last!
After a long, wet day of walking, our weary feet are grateful for the respite.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/arrive-portomarin.jpg)
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DAY 10 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei (21.9km)
The relentless rain turned the Camino into a muddy slog. Every step was a challenge as soaked boots squelched and wind whipped against rain-soaked clothes. The once inviting landscape was now a dreary blur.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/portomarin-to-palas-de-rei.jpg)
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Caught in a Camino Hailstorm
The rain was a constant companion on the trek from Portomarin to Palas de Rei. Just when I thought it couldn't get worse, a sudden hailstorm erupted. With no shelter in sight, we were caught in the open, shivering and drenched.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/field-hailstorm.jpg)
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We made it to Palas de Rei!
We finally reached Palas de Rei, drenched and starving. Luckily, Pulperia a Nosa Terra, a fantastic restaurant next to our hotel, came to the rescue with a delicious dinner. The day's ordeal ended on a high note when we discovered a foot bath bucket in our room - perfect for our aching feet!
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/palas-de-rei_horse.jpg)
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Pulperia-a-Nosa-Terra-dinne.jpg)
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DAY 11 - Palas de Rei to Melide (15km)
The path from Palas de Rei to Melide was a muddy gauntlet. With each step, boots sank deeper, creating a sucking sound that echoed in the quiet morning. The once familiar landscape was transformed into a slippery, brown expanse. Every muscle ached as I fought to keep my balance and push forward, one muddy footstep at a time.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/palas-de-rei-melide_zoe.jpg)
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![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/palas-de-rei-melide-lunch.jpg)
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Forest Bathing and Fluffy Friends
Despite the persistent rain, the walk from Palas de Rei to Melide offered moments of beauty. Towering trees formed a lush green canopy, providing a temporary escape from the wet. In a surprising twist, a flock of sheep emerged from the mist, their woolly coats glistening in the rain. The sight brought a smile to my face, a small victory against the dreary weather.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/palas-de-rei_melide-forest.jpg)
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Churros and Clean Clothes in Melide
Melide was a welcome respite from the trail. After a quick laundry session, we treated ourselves to a hearty dinner. But the highlight of the day was undoubtedly the churros con chocolate. This decadent treat had been calling my name since the Camino began, and I was thrilled to finally indulge. As I savored the crispy, sugary churros dipped in rich chocolate, all the day's weariness melted away.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/salmon-avocado-alborada.jpg)
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DAY 12 - Melide to Arzúa (15KM)
A planned rest day turned into an unplanned walking adventure. Feeling under the weather and physically depleted, I'd hoped to bypass today's stage with a bus or taxi, but transportation options were scarce. With no hotel check-in before 3pm, walking became the only viable option.
The rain continued its relentless patter as we made our way from Melide to Arzúa. Today's stage was mercifully short, a result of a planning mishap. A miscalculation had led us to choose a stop earlier than intended. Fortunately, the shorter distance proved to be a blessing in disguise.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/map.jpg)
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River Crossing Dilemma
The downpour had transformed the familiar path into a raging torrent. Faced with a swollen river, we hesitated. Pilgrims before us had waded through, shoes and all, but the current looked fierce. To remove our shoes was to risk the unknown, while keeping them on risked ruining them and making the rest of the walk miserable. A dilemma unfolded before us, each option fraught with uncertainty.
Unexpected Camino Challenge
A Serendipitous Shortcut
I was grateful for the unexpected shorter journey to Arzúa. Feeling under the weather, I realized the reduced walking distance was a blessing in disguise. As I trudged through the rain, a sense of peace washed over me. It felt as though a higher power had intervened, tailoring the day's path to my needs. With each step, I felt a deepening connection to the Camino and a growing trust in the journey's unfolding.
![melide-arzua](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/melide-arzua-1.jpg)
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Casa Rural Pazo de Sedor: A Camino Oasis
Nestled in the charming town of Arzua, Casa Rural Pazo de Sedor stands out as an absolute gem among our Camino accommodations. This tranquil retreat offers a luxurious escape from the trail, with its picturesque setting and impeccable service. It's the perfect place to recharge after a long day of walking.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Casa-Rural-Pazo-de_Sedor.jpg)
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DAY 13 - Arzúa to Santiago (37KM)
My miscalculation on the previous stage left us facing a daunting 37-kilometer trek to Santiago. Realizing this was an impossible task in a single day, we sought an alternative. A morning bus to O Pedrouzo offered a lifeline. With a more manageable 19-kilometer stretch ahead, we adjusted our plans, eager to reach the final destination.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/arzua-santiago-busstop.jpg)
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The Camino Slip 'n Slide
The relentless rain had transformed the Camino into a water park, at least in parts. Today's trek from O Pedrouzo to Santiago was no exception. We encountered a river-like dip in the path. With a touch of gallows humor, we joked about the potential for a spontaneous whitewater rafting adventure.
A Dreamlike Encounter
The night before reaching Santiago, I had a vivid dream involving my beloved Yorkie, Bear, and my late dog, Sparky. In this surreal vision, their faces emerged from a wooden box. Bear, unusually, was sitting upright, his fur a striking blend of black, brown, and red, mirroring the autumnal hues of a majestic mountain behind him. As I watched, his form dwindled until it vanished.
Intriguingly, the next day, I encountered a mountain that mirrored the colors of Bear's fur in my dream. It was an unexpected sight, given the predominantly green landscapes of the Camino. This uncanny coincidence has left me pondering the dream's significance.
Dear Bear, perhaps a part of you has walked with me on this journey. Your spirit, your memory, and your unconditional love have been my constant companions. Maybe that mountain was a sign of your presence, a reminder of the incredible bond we shared. Wherever you are, know that you're deeply missed and eternally loved.
![bear mountain](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/bear-mountain.png)
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A Canine Cheerleader
The final stretch from O Pedrouzo to Santiago was a bittersweet mix of exhilaration and exhaustion. With each step, anticipation grew as the iconic spires of the cathedral came into view. As we navigated the final kilometers, a burst of energy came from an unexpected source. A playful dog at a roadside house kept jumping and barking with enthusiasm. It was as if he were cheering us on, urging us forward with his boundless joy. 🙂
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Santiago: A Pilgrim's Triumph
The final approach to Santiago was a whirlwind of emotions. Our first stop was the pilgrims' office to secure the coveted Compostela certificate before closing time. With the essential document in hand, we eagerly made our way to the magnificent Santiago Cathedral. A sense of accomplishment and awe washed over us as we stepped into this iconic place of worship, marking the culmination of our Camino journey.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/arriving-santiago.jpg)
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![Pilgrim’s-Reception-Office](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Pilgrims-Reception-Office.jpg)
![Camino-Francés-passport](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Camino-Frances-passport.jpg)
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Santiago's Culinary Reward
Dinner was a much-needed respite after the rigors of the Camino. The percebes were a salty delight, the flounder perfectly cooked, and the scallops a tender treat. We paired these treasures with fried padron peppers and refreshing beer, creating a symphony of flavors. It was the perfect way to celebrate our Camino journey.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/santiago-Octopus.jpg)
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DAY 14 - Santiago de Compostela
Our final day in Santiago was a delightful blend of indulgence and spirituality. We kicked off the morning with a decadent breakfast of churros and thick, rich chocolate, a perfect treat after the Camino's challenges. Later, we immersed ourselves in the cathedral's sacred atmosphere, attending the morning worship service. The experience was both humbling and uplifting, marking a fitting end to our pilgrimage.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/churro-con-chocolate.jpg)
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Octopus Extravaganza
El Papatorio was a delightful surprise. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service were matched only by the delicious food. Their signature dish, a mouthwatering octopus, was tender and flavorful. Paired with a local caña (Mahou is my favorite), it was the perfect lunch to celebrate our Camino journey.
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Santiago's Sweet Temptations
- Tarta de Santiago (Spanish almond cake) : This almond cake is a local specialty, and it's incredibly flavorful and moist.
- Pastelería La Perla (Traditional butter and cinnamon cookies) : Their traditional butter and cinnamon cookies are simply divine. Flaky, buttery layers are infused with the warm spice of cinnamon, creating a perfect balance of flavors.
![Pastelería-La-Perla](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Pasteleria-La-Perla.jpg)
![Pastelería-La-Perla-santiag](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Pasteleria-La-Perla-santiag.jpg)
![Pastelería_La-Perla](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/Pasteleria_La-Perla.jpg)
A Noiesa Casa de Comidas: A Taste of Galician Cuisine
A Noiesa Casa de Comidas lived up to its stellar reviews. I indulged in the fried artichoke and eggplant, both of which were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The flavors were bold and satisfying, making it a memorable dining experience.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/A-Noiesa-Casa-de-Comidas.jpg)
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Walking Your Way to Wholeness
The Camino is a journey of self-discovery. With each step, you peel back layers of stress and routine, allowing introspection to blossom. I wholeheartedly encourage you to embark on this transformative journey. The Camino is more than just a walk; it's an invitation to connect with yourself, nature, and a global community of like-minded souls. Prepare to be challenged, inspired, and forever changed.
![](https://www.eatlosophy.com/wp-content/uploads/camino-de-santiago-2024.jpg)